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四年前餐廳開張就放在菜單上的一道魚饌,不單單是招牌菜,而且已成為餐廳的DNA,不管菜單怎樣更新,都一...

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四年前餐廳開張就放在菜單上的一道魚饌,不單單是招牌菜,而且已成為餐廳的DNA,不管菜單怎樣更新,都一定保留。不花巧、簡約但選材到位、演繹精準的一道菜,以日式混合法式的烹調技術去表達了中菜蒸魚+魚湯文化的精髓,看到一個廚師寬闊的視野。這一晚徹底感動我的是,這已經吃過無數次的菜,還是吃出了不同之處,味道更好更有深度了,跟大廚Chef Maxime 查詢,他說是的,他最近在細節上作了調整及改良。
一道他做了至少一千次的菜,仍找到可以突破之處,反映一個廚師在不斷尋求進步的決心,以及對自我要求之高是異於常人。

Akamutsu, the rosey seabass wrapped in Brittany Kombu with verbena and steamed with Sake over hot stones ----- the fish dish placed on the menu since day one in @ecriturehk . I think this is more than a signature dish now, it has also become part of the DNA of the restaurant. A rather simple dish, no dazzling elements, no fancy factor, however with the well-selected ingredients and calibrated execution, @mximeagilbert successfully expressed the beauty of Chinese Steamed fish + fish soup culture through his excellent cooking skill with both Japanese and French cooking techniques applied to it.

I have had this dish for many times, but the latest experience touched me greatly ----- it tastes slightly different, even better of course, the flavour carried more in-depth, and the fumet texture is thicker and smoother than the past. I checked with Chef Maxime, he said yes, he has recently made some minor adjustments in the details hence the improved version is borned. Wow! A dish that he has cooked at least a thousand times, but still able to find a way for the breakthrough, you can tell a determined and self-demanding person he is, to constantly seek improvement for better results. Respect.

#akamutsu #signaturedish #maximegilbert #ecriture #ecriturehongkong #michelinstar #michelinstarrestaurant #foodcriticschoice #agnescheefoodcritic #hongkongfinedining #centraleats #fishlover #instafish #fishdish #frenchfinedining


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美食專欄作家、食評人,人物專訪、旅遊專題特約。作品散見於中港台新馬各大媒體。目前定居香港。
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